Would you think of Chanel for a tourbillon watch?

03 july 2005

26th June 2005

The luxury of time

From high fashion pieces to horological complications, Chanel’s 2005 timepieces are a perfect addition to the luxury house’s existing collections, says DZIREENA MAHADZIR.

WOULD you think of a tourbillon watch when you think of Chanel? Not exactly, as their watches are primarily dainty, elegant pieces influenced one way or another by the rich history of the luxury fashion house.

However, the arrival of the J12 in 2000 marked the beginning of a watch collection that scored several “firsts” for Chanel: the first sports watch, the first automatic watch, the first unisex watch and the first scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic watch.

Jacques Helleu, Artistic Director for Chanel, revealed that he initially created the J12 for himself as he wanted a timeless, glossy black and indestructible watch that brought to mind classic automobiles.

Helleu, who has a long time passion for all things mechanical, has a golden rule in watchmaking: On the creative side, it is to eliminate the superfluous and delve in right into the essential, to seek simplicity yet respect Chanel’s classic lines. On the technical side, he strives to ensure a high level of quality.

This year, Chanel entered the “complications” watch arena by launching the J12 Tourbillon, their first “grande” complication. Available in ceramic or white gold, it has the exceptional movement of the Tourbillon Chanel 05-T.1.

Each of the 52 parts of the Tourbillon is rhodium-plated, fashioned by the best master craftsmen and the ceramic plates are made to 1/100, which is an unequalled level of precision for this type of material. And naturally, each movement is assembled by hand.

Incidentally, for the first time in watchmaking history, the bottom plate of the timepiece, which serves as a support for the mechanism, is fabricated in high tech ceramic, and this can be seen clearly through the sapphire back casing. The central mobile part, manufactured for the first time in optic glass, rotates the insignia “Tourbillion J12” at one revolution per minute.

The J12 Tourbillon comes in white or black, and there are only 12 pieces of each colour in the 2005 collection. Each timepiece will have its edition number engraved on the back of the case.

The J12 collection includes a range of other timepieces. The “J12” Editions Limitées Collection, launched in 2004, has a custom-made watch line and for 2005, and it now includes Multiple Combinations, where the most precious and rare jewels are found on the bezel, dial, indicators and the strap to produce a number of combinations.

The J12 Chronographe for 2005 has a striking combination of black diamonds on white ceramic or white diamonds on black ceramic, and an additional two variations of white diamonds on white ceramic, and black diamonds on black ceramic.

Another new addition this year is the J12 Index Diamonds, in black or white with the indicators set with 12 diamonds.

For Les Intemporelles de Chanel (the timeless collections), which consists of Première, Chocolat, Matelassée and Mademoiselle, each line has a new 2005 version. For Première, the first watch created by Helleu and inspired by the cabochon of the No5 fragrance and the shape of the Palace Vendome in Paris, the new version has a mother of pearl dial on a steel chain bracelet interlinked with a white rubber ribbon.

Chocolat, the first jewellery watch with a digital display was launched in 2003, and its updated version appears in three metal versions: a completely steel version, a steel version set with 24 diamonds and another steel version in white gold with 240 diamonds set along the sides of the bracelet. Matelassée, the watch most inspired by Chanel’s fashion world – with its square dial and complexity of the articulated bracelet – comes out with two versions this year, one of steel and one that combines steel with 32 diamonds.

What of Mademoiselle “The Glamorous Spirit”? Created in 1990, this watch paid homage to the art deco spirit and the “masculine-feminine” style of Coco Chanel. This year, simple steel versions have a subtly matelassée leather strap in two colours – classic black and feminine pink.

Finally, in the Les Joailleries de Chanel (the jewellery timepiece collections), the Mademoiselle Pearls, Camélia and the 1932 ranges round off the Chanel timepiece collection for 2005.

Mademoiselle Pearls now has two chic versions. The first is a simple one of yellow gold with a white lacquer dial on a cultured pearl bracelet with a yellow gold clasp. The other is a spectacular version with pearls and white gold and a dial entirely pave-set with 168 diamonds on a cultured pearl bracelet mounted on white gold wire strands.

The Camélia has a touch of spring with the petals of the watch set with 99 pink sapphires and 48 diamonds and a pink mother of pearl dial set with four pink sapphire indicators on a pink satin bracelet.

The 1932, inspired by the first ever fine jewellery collection created in that year by Mademoiselle Chanel, is a graphic art deco range which plays on the contrast of black and white. There is also a softer version in pink. Moving away from its “vintage” quality this year, the 1932 becomes more sophisticated with three diamond-set models. Choose from a mother-of-pearl dial in white gold with graphic lines in 101 white diamonds, a black dial in white gold with three sections set with 77 white diamonds or an all-diamond version with panels of white or black diamonds.

The J12 Tourbillon and selected high-end watches are available by special order only, please check for your country Chanel contact details: www.chanel.com

Article by: TheStarMag.com.my